Sample knit with worsted weight yarn, US size 6 needles
Multiple of 2
Cast on using Color A
Row 1 (RS): Color A - *Sl 1 wyif, K1*
Row 2: Color B - *Sl 1 wyib, P1*
Row 3: Color C - Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Color A - Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Color B - Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Color C - Repeat Row 2
Sample knit with Mulberry and Merino on US #6 needles
Some notes on Brioche Knitting:
100% wool or wool blend yarn (not superwash) is the best choice, or mohair, or any yarn that has a 'sticky' quality.
This stitch creates a very stretchy, airy fabric so you can use a smaller needle than called for on the ball band.
Be sure the cast on and bind off are loose so the edges will stretch with the fabric. Try casting on and binding off with a larger needle than the one used for the main part of the fabric.
The yo-sl 1 are worked in one movement; you carry the yarn over the needle as you are slipping the stitch. The yo/slipped stitch are counted as one stitch, not a separate yarn over and a slipped stitch.
When working the slipped stitch and yo together, you are making the brioche knit stitch.
Cast on an even number of stitches
Set up row: *yo-sl 1, k1*
Pattern Row: *yo-sl 1, K2tog*
Repeat from Pattern Row
Below is the video. I of course show Continental, and also stumble through English style. If you like Brioche, you may want to check out Nancy Marchant's book, Knitting Brioche. She also has a class over on Craftsy, Explorations in Brioche Knitting.
Sample knit with worsted weight yarn on US Size 6 needles
This stitch makes a tight, dense fabric - on one side. The other side is like seed stitch. What a great scarf this stitch would make! You can use larger needles than called for on your ball band and still get a nice solid fabric.
This stitch is one of the first stitch patterns I made a video for, and I thought it was time to do a new, clear HD video.
I have also seen this stitch called Fabric Stitch or Sugarplum Stitch. However, this shouldn't be confused with another "Fabric Stitch" you may see, that is worked differently. Same name, different stitches - it happens often. Whatever you call it, have fun knitting something with it!
There isn't much difference between the circular and the flat version of this stitch - all you need to remember is to put the stitch marker back in the correct place, and twist the first stitch of each new round.
When you come to the end of each round, you will need to slip the last stitch before the marker off the left needle so you can temporarily remove the stitch marker (or, use one of the stitch markers that opens and closes like a safety pin). Once the stitch marker has been removed, slip the stitch back to the left needle, and either k2tog or k2tog tbl, depending on which round you are working on. If you do not do this with the stitch marker, you will be moving the beginning/end of your round each time you complete a round - I show this in the video.
Once the stitches have been worked, you need to put the marker back on. Slip the first stitch on the right needle off, place the marker, then slip the stitch back onto the right needle.
Now, you will need to twist the first stitch on the left needle before proceeding with the next round. This is shown in the video, and is really simple.
As with the flat version, this is worked on any number of stitches, and you will be repeating two rounds.
Round 1: *k2tog, slipping only the first stitch from the left needle
Round 2: *k2tog tbl, slipping on the first stitch from the left needle
