Sample knit with worsted weight yarn, US size 6 needles
Since this is stockinette based, the edges do curl; depending on how you plan to use the stitch, you may want to consider adding a border to help it lay flat. You may also know this stitch as Cocoon Stitch.
Multiple of 6 + 3
MT = make tail --- to make the tail:
k1, turn work
using the knitted cast on, cast on 5 sts, then bind off the same 5 sts
wyif, slip first st on right needle back to left needle, turn work
Row 1 (RS): knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: *k1, MT, k4; rep from* to last 3 sts, k1, MT, k1
Sample knit with worsted weigh yarn on US size 6 needles
Sample knit with bulky weight yarn on US size 17 needles
Another stitch from this French channel - I omitted the edge stitches for mine - you can add two extra stitches if you like, one for each edge . Slip the first stitch and either purl or knit the last; if the next to last stitch you made was a knit then knit the last stitch and if the next to last stitch you made was a purl, purl the last stitch.
Multiple of 5 + 2 (or 5+2+2 if using edge stitches)
Set up rows - not repeated
Row 1: p2 *k3, p2
Row 2: k2 *p3, k2
Row 3: p2 *k3, p2
Row 4: k2 *p3, k2
Row 5: p2 *insert right needle into third stitch down from second stitch on left needle and pull up a loop, k3, insert right needle into same stitch as before and pull up another loop; p2
Sample made with Sapphires-n-Purls Rustic Worsted, G hook
Sample made with Sapphires-n-Purls Rustic Worsted, US size 6 needle
While not an exact match, this knitted version comes fairly close to the crochet version. I have seen a couple of other knit stitches called crocodile stitch, and this one to me looks to be the closest to the crochet stitch. I found this stitch on Pinterest, which led me to this video on YouTube. (Video is in French, the translation was a bit helpful, but I had to slow the video down as much as I could and write down each step) She uses a crochet hook to make the scales; in my video/instructions, I show how to make the scales without a crochet hook because I find having to wrangle a crochet hook too fiddly.
As you can see along the top of my knit sample, there is a row of loops - these come from binding off after Row 8. I didn't play around with the bind off, but you should be able to avoid these loops by not working any further than the first three rows and then binding off. I'd say just work Row 1 once more before binding off should do the trick. Or, you can leave the loops as they make very pretty buttonholes. If you make a wrap, scarf or cowl that you want buttoned, these loops would be perfect.
Multiple of 8 + 2
Row 1: purl
Row 2: *k1, yo; rep from * to last st, k1
Row 3: *k1, drop yo from previous row
Row 4: p1 *slip next seven sts to right needle, then drape working yarn over right needle in position so that you can pass each of the 7 slipped stitches over it, one at a time; (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into next st; repeat from * to last st, p1
Row 5: purl
Row 6: *k1, yo; rep from * to last st, k1
Row 7: *k1, drop yo from previous row
Row 8: p1 *(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into next st; slip next seven sts to right needle, then drape working yarn over right needle in position so that you can pass each of the 7 slipped stitches over it, one at a time; rep from * to last st, p1
Sample knit with Sapphires-n-Purls Rustic Worsted on USsize 6 needles
Multiple of 4
Rows 1, 2, 5 and 6: k1, p1
Row 3: p1, k3
Row 4: p3, k1
Row 7: k2 *p1, k3, rep. from * to last two sts, end p1, k1
Row 8: p1 *k1, p3, rep. from * to last three sts, end k1, p2
Repeat these 8 rows for the pattern.
This lays flat, but the edges aren't very neat. Depending on how you plan to use the stitch, you may want to add some extra stitches for a border to neaten things up. Garter Stitch Border or Seed Stitch Border